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Royal Passage
Exploring the Kingdom of Swaziland

As featured and advertised in the January 2012 issue of Skyways, Airlink's inflight magazine

Its current financial woes aside, Swaziland is one of the continent’s most stable nations. The country is 99% free of political violence – just one political death since independence. Swaziland is also smallest country in the southern hemisphere, covering an area of just 17,000 square kilometres.

The history of the Kingdom is as colourful as its people. The Swazis are a Bantu-speaking people who are predominantly Nguni in language and culture. They originate from east central Africa. As part of the Nguni expansion southwards, the Swazis crossed the Limpopo River and settled in southern Tongaland (today called Mozambique) in the late fifteenth century. Their leader was Dlamini, a man of Nguni background. After 200 years the Swazi people, still under a series of chiefs of the Dlamini clans moved into the region on the Pongola River, where they lived in close proximity to the Ndwandwe people. Later on, economic pressures of land shortage finally brought these two groups to blows, after which battle the Swazis retreated to the central area of modern Swaziland. Here the Swazis continued the process of expansion by conquering numerous small Sotho and Nguni-speaking tribes to build up what is today called Swaziland. At the turn of the 20th Century, Swaziland became a protectorate under the British. It regained its independence in September 1968. At the time, it was the only state in black Africa ruled by the natural successors of the leadership of pre-colonial times. The current monarch is King Mswati III who ascended the throne in 1986.

Nature's best

Serene and beautiful, Swaziland is renowned for its beauty and peaceful environment. Tourists are drawn to the land for many reasons: Its natural diversity, its breathtaking vistas, and its friendly locals. Exploring the country reveals a juxtaposition of gamerich expanses and bustling villages. The former provides excellent wildlife and photographic opportunities for visitors, while the latter, arts and crafts, fresh vegetable markets and traditional medicine are defining features. Natural attractions in Swaziland include its waterfalls and lush, forested ravines. The country is also wellknown for its hand-crafted candles and Ngwenya glass sculptures.

Tourist attractions include: Game viewing

In this beautiful area of contrasts Palmhof can take you on a quad bike trip not to be forgotten. You'll start at the guesthouse and go through vineyards, rocky areas and dunes where land meets river. This is about a two-hour trip, perfect to get rid of any extra energy and is suitable for children as well as those young at heart.

Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, Swaziland's pioneer conservation area is a beautiful secluded sanctuary situated in Swaziland's 'valley of heaven', the Ezulwini valley. The sanctuary's grasslands stretch up onto the Nyonyane Mountain with its granite peak known as the 'rock of execution' where the ancient San once lived. Here one can view game such giraffe, hippo, crocodile, zebra and impala.

Reed Dance

The Umhlanga (or Reed Dance) takes place in late August or early September each year and is a mustsee if you are visiting the country. It is a dance which attracts young maidens from every area of the Kingdom and provides the occasion for them to honour and pay homage to the Queen Mother. Most of the participants are teenagers, although some of the girls are younger. Over 20 000 maidens gather reeds from selected areas which they present to the King and the Queen Mother. The girls wear short beaded skirts with anklets, bracelets and jewellery and colourful sashes. The royal princesses wear red feathers in their hair and lead the maidens to perform before Their Majesties.

Incwala Ceremony

The Incwala, or first fruits ceremony, in which the King plays a dominant role, is the most sacred of all the Swazi rituals. It is held in December or January on a date chosen by astrologers in conjunction with the phases of the moon and sun. The ritual begins with a journey by the 'Bemanti' (people of the water) to the Indian Ocean to collect water and on their return to the royal kraal, the little Incwala begins, on the new moon. At the full moon, youths from all parts of the kingdom travel to collect the sacred branches of the 'lusekwane' shrub, a species of acacia. On the third day a bull is ritually slaughtered by the youths, instilling solidarity among them and a spirit of valour. The fourth day is the culmination of the Incwala when the King, in full ceremonial dress, joins his warriors in the traditional dance. He then enters a special sanctuary and after further rituals, eats the first fruits of the season. On the appearance of the King to his people, they may also eat these fruits with the blessing of the ancestors.

Glassblowing

Witness first-hand, the magical art of glassblowing at Ngwenya Glass. You can view it from an overhead balcony, each item being made from 100% recycled glass. Also on the premises is a Craft Centre which sells a wide range of reasonably priced African handicrafts and traditional rocking horses handmade on the premises.

Activities

If you love the great outdoors, Swaziland is the perfect holiday destination. There is a wide array of activities that appeal to every type of traveller – from avid adventurers and safari addicts to travellers in search of an authentic African getaway.

Swaziland’s diverse landscape is best viewed from the top. Hit one of the country’s renowned hiking trails to get a birds-eye view of the country – from its verdant hills and savannahs to its mountain ranges and bustling villages.

From the slopes and mountain tops of Swaziland’s sweeping ranges, you’ll experience the panoramic views for which the country is famed. From this vantage point, take in the rural villages, diverse vegetation and rustic charm of the kingdom. Superb walking and hiking trails are to be found in the Malolotia Nature Reserve, situated in the Swazi highlands.

Adrenaline junkies can take on the Devils Cauldron Quad Trail. The custom-designed 8km course crosses over streams, dongas and forests. The most popular activity in Swaziland is white-water rafting on the Great Usuthu River (the largest river flowing through Swaziland). Twoman inflatable croc-crafts are safely guided down the river. This challenge is suitable for beginners as well as seasoned adventurers. During the low season a combination of abseiling, kloof jumping and rafting keeps adrenaline on a high.

Oasis of the North:
Phalaborwa offers a unique South African experience

Airport buildings are not always beautiful no one really cares for aesthetics. All that matters is that it is functional and nowadays, safe. That is why it’s a refreshing surprise when you land at Kruger Gate Airport in Phalaborwa. This city is known as the gateway to the Kruger National Park and once the wheels touch down, you immediately get a taste of a true African adventure.

The design is unique, comprising thatched roof, wildlife sculptures, and animal imprints on the cement floor of the terminal building. And still the airport functions with clockwork precision. In a way, this is indicative of the town of Phalaborwa – welcoming to any visitor. Perhaps the most striking feature about the town is its relaxed pace. That's not to say things don’t get done on time. After all, this is one of the most important mining towns in the country. Phalaborwa Mining Company's open cast mine is Africa's widest man-made hole at almost 2,000 metres wide. It is also the only town in South Africa that borders the Kruger National Park and the Mozambiquan border is only two hours away. Yet you won’t get stuck in queues of traffic, shopping malls are not overly crowded and it is fairly easy to get around the town and surrounding areas.

Born free

It's mining importance aside, Phalaborwa has gained popularity for it wildlife tourism, especially as an entry point to the Kruger National Park. The Phalaborwa Gate is a stone’s throw away from the airport. It was built in June 1961 and about 180,000 visitors per annum, enter the Park via the Phalaborwa Gate.

The Kruger National Park has a wide diversity of life forms; it is home to an impressive 336 tree species, 49 fish species, 34 amphibian species, 114 reptile species, 507 bird species and 147 mammal species. Most establishments offer guided safaris through the park. The most popular are guided bushwalks, night game drives, 4X4 overland trails and bush braais. Or you could enjoy the view from the top with a hot air balloon ride or microlight flight.

Cultural trip

There are no shortages of museum and cultural sites in Phalaborwa and these are great ways to understand the history of the town. A good place to start is the Foskor Museum, located in the first house ever built in Phalaborwa. Here you can experience the mining history of Phalaborwa and ancestral living in the area. Located within the Kruger National Park is the Masorini Archeological Site. The site was inhabited by the Sotho-speaking BaPhalaborwa during the 1800s, who developed an advanced and sophisticated industry of mining, smelting iron ore and trading in these iron products.

Dome shaped clay furnaces found on the site were used to smelt the iron ore. Skin bags attached to the end of clay piping were used as bellows. The ore would flow into the middle of the furnace due to the inward sloping floors and once cooled would be removed and stored. Through archaeological and ethnographic investigations the site has been reconstructed as authentically as possible. The huts have recently been renovated by local BaPhalaborwa people living on the borders of the park.

A short drive from the main town is Loolekop. About two billion years ago, a series of violent volcanic eruptions, which took place over a period of millions of years, gave rise to a rich body of minerals. The unique ore body outcropping at a small saddleback hill contains a unique variety of minerals – copper, phosphates, magnetite, uranium, zirconium, nickel, gold, silver, platinum, and palladium. Two other volcanic pipes nearby contain vermiculite and phosphate. Smelting of copper iron occurred in the district prior to the discovery.

Beyond the city

Take a journey to the outskirts of Palaborwa and you are immediately transported to lush green surroundings. It is here that you will also find a number of interesting wildlife attractions such as Moholoholo Wildlife and Birdlife Rehabilitation Centre. Here a dedicated team of conservationists take care of poisoned and injured animals and birds. It is an experience not to be missed as you get to interact with some of the big five and raptors. The Centre provides an interactive educational experience and is a real eye opener to just how seriously endangered some of our wildlife are.

The Bombyx Mori Silk Farm is a must-see attraction for any visitor to Phalaborwa. It is currently the only known commercial silkworm farm in the country. Take a journey through silk’s fascinating history, learn how they organically farm the silkworms and how they process the silk cocoons into wonderful products that are sold worldwide.

Wherever you laid your head...

As a town that thrives on tourism, there is no shortage of accommodation, ranging from luxury lodges to backpacker lodgings located throughout the city. Most offer a safari service to the Kruger National Park and some even have their own private game reserves. Only a short distance from Phalaborwa Gate is Sefepane Lodge. This unique lodge with tropical gardens gives you a real African feeling combined with luxury, offering you an amazing safari, canyon and cultural experience. Sefepane Lodge offers luxury accommodation, restaurant and entertaining bar, a spa, sparkling swimming pools and activities for children. The Lodge's gardens are surrounded by four lakes that feature a variety of spectacular indigenous flora and fauna. There are two types of accommodation options available – rondawels and safari houses. The former sit beneath shady trees and feature rustic African décor. Amenities include a private veranda, wifi and comfortable beds. There are 18 safari houses nestled alongside the dams, which are ideal for up to two families with children. Each home can accommodate up to 10 guests and comes complete with spacious lounge and fully equipped kitchen.

One of the major attractions at Sefepane Lodge is the Misava Spa. Named after the local Tsonga word for Earth, the spa offers you numerous holistic body and beauty treatments. Set in a real African rondavel, treatments are done using local products featuring South African plants and herbs. It is the ideal way to distress and rejuvenate. Phalaborwa is fast-gaining a reputation as an international tourist destination. And it’s not hard to see why. The town’s tourism authorities are making the most of publicising its natural beauty, moderate climate and friendly inhabitants. With so much on offer, Phalaborwa has something for every type of tourist.

Mineral wealth

Phalaborwa is renowned for its mining resources. There are three main industries that operate in the town. The Palaborwa Mining Company was established in 1963 and forms part of the worldwide Rio Tinto Group. The major minerals mined are copper, phosphate, magnetite and vermiculite. Palabora supplies all of South Africa’s copper and approximately 50% of the world’s vermiculite. The mine creates employment for close to 1,800 employees and 1,600 contractors. The mine established a large foundation for corporate social investment work in communities surrounding Phalaborwa and this has made a significant improvement to the quality of life of local communities. Foskor, wholly owned subsidiary of the Industrial Development Corporation (IDC), was established in 1951. It is unique as it is host to many valuable minerals, the most relevant of which are phosphate, copper, zirconium, iron and vermiculite. The phosphate ore reserves at Phalaborwa amount to approximately 2,5 billion tons of ore. This is 5% of the proven world phosphate rock reserves.

Sasol Nitro Phalaborwa is engaged in the production of water-soluble chemical phosphates destined for the agricultural sector of local (primary) and overseas markets. The major products are 54% merchant grade phosphoric acid and defluorinated acid. The type of operations could be described as being in the heavy chemical process industry. Sasol Nitro today is a major contributor to agricultural-based factories that produce various fertiliser grades and animal feeds. Other end usages are as ingredients in detergents as well as in foodstuffs.