Fly Airlink - Freedom of the African Sky

On the peninsula

Londo Lodge, a boutique bush resort that appears detached from the mainland on a sliver of peninsula jutting into the bay, embraces the local culture in its flawless amalgamation of modern, natural and traditional décor.

Built into arid surroundings littered with old and majestic baobab trees, you get sucked into the magic of the place from the moment you chug up to shore and are greeted with warm smiles and welcoming waves. Tucked into a tiny corner of one of the world's largest bays, it's as though we've landed on a deserted island. The whitewashed huts have vast louvered doors that open onto an outdoor living room and a pair of beach beds perched on a paved tip - our very own esplanade over the sea.

A nice breeze is kicking up its heels, rustling the bare branches in the garden. A lone, young frangipani and a pink hibiscus provide necessary splashes of colour. In the distance a couple of dhows leapfrog each other on the back of the breeze and we watch the green-blue water glide by our doorstep on its way out to the Indian Ocean. Aside from the sweet chirp of a bird, there is no noise: no cars, no boat engines, and no people.

On the short walk to the main house, where airy Mediterranean architecture meets more Moroccaninfused style, we pass bougainvilleas all the colours of a Pemban sunset: deep purple, bright pink and sombre orange. An infinity pool drips into the bay, which sparkles like glitter in the midday sun. Dining combines the best of local catches with a dash of Asian and African flavours. We feast on overflowing bowls of sumptuous mud crab, grapple with giant prawns and salivate over the sesame-crusted tuna under the shade of an umbrella with an endless blue view and a pair of cheeky Hornbills as constant companions.

Wild companions

At a delicious breakfast of fruit, muesli and fluffy pikelets, a fellow guest is scanning the bay with binoculars. She asks us if we have seen dolphins yet. We haven't but she has seen a pod crossing the bay. The large bay is not only scenic but comes alive with wildlife at the right time of the year. Dolphins regularly frolic in the turquoise water and from winter to early spring, humpback whales can be seen puffing their way across the horizon.

We're lucky enough to see a whale from Pemba Beach Hotel. It's another binocular-toting guest who points us in the right direction. We feel incredibly privileged to see the unmistakable waterspout of a whale gliding across the horizon as we enjoy a couple of sundowners at the hunter-themed Niassa Bar.

As on most of Africa's east coast, trade began with the Arabs before being picked up by the Portugese colonialists. So the Pemba Beach Hotel has combined African, Portugese and Arabic influences to create a masterpiece replete with colonnades, turrets and archways. From the air the hotel looks like a terracotta palace. Amongst a landscape of barren brush it appears to be the only civilization below. Situated on the white arc of Wimbe beach as it meets the sea, it's prime Pemba real estate.

The hotel is a few kilometers out of town but offers everything you could possibly need from a spa to pools, bars and restaurants serving some of the best lobster around and decadent chunks of chocolate cake. In a town yet to realize its tourism potential, the beach hotel is the standout choice for luxury accommodation. Much of Pemba's charm lies in its laid-back, smalltown vibe. Interestingly, had there not been a mad rush to secure the south during colonial times, the Portuguese likely would have selected Pemba - instead of Maputo - as their capital, due to its strategic location and deepwater port.

Thank heavens they left it alone.