Fly Airlink - Freedom of the African Sky

Explore Gorongosa

As featured and advertised in the November 2010 issue of Skyways, Airlink's inflight magazine

Eighteen months ago, Skyways ran an article introducing its readers to the first and currently only private safari bush camp operating in Mozambique's premier national park, Gorongosa. In only its second year in operation Explore Gorongosa is providing an authentic and original breath of fresh air to the African safari scene.

The camp has already had a huge response from Africaphiles around the world and those excited by the heartening story of the restoration of what was once one of Africa's most densely populated game reserves. Decades of civil war in Mozambique and the resultant lack of management left 'the place where Noah left his ark' in ruins. Then, in the late nineties, things started to tick again as first the Mozambican government and then donor agencies like WWF started to get involved. Now, with the help of a number of donors, including American philanthropist Greg Carr and the USAid, Gorongosa is firmly back on the map again with animal numbers on the increase, birding as good as anywhere else on the continent, and a surrounding community that is starting to see big benefits being extended to them beyond the boundaries of the park.

Feel-good story

Gorongosa is one of those feel-good African success stories in the making, so much so that National Geographic recently released a full-length feature on the park on its international channels - a film which has raked in just about every award available for nature film-making this year. The park is truly in that exciting growth phase, full of positive people on a mission. It's the African conservation story of the moment and Explore Gorongosa provides front-row seats for you to enjoy it from. The unique safari experience from an intimate little tented bush camp is highly eco-conscious with a 90%-plus eco-rating. Guests (only 12 maximum at any one time, so one big family really) are hosted by one of the region's top guides who leads the fascinating walking safaris and game drives (including really productive night drives - think porcupines, civets, servals, genets, mongooses and honey badgers, all in one drive!) If you need your fix of 24-hour Big 5 box-ticking, perhaps Gorongosa is not for you, although the park is home to a good number of lion, elephant, buffalo and leopard, not to mention hippo, crocodiles and antelope herds for Africa. But if you appreciate the bigger picture, the story, the stunning back-drop, the sweeping floodplains filled (literally filled) with waterbuck, oribi, warthog, reedbuck, impala, baboon and more, then perhaps a trip to central Mozambique would be the perfect tonic to soothe shattered nerves as the year draws to a close. With a combination of Gorongosa's bush and the tropical islands of Mozambique's pristine beaches, it's almost the perfect holiday. Almost...

Explore the mountain

To add even more appeal to an already appetising safari, the good people at Explore Gorongosa have recently increased their scope to include leading exploratory trips up Mount Gorongosa. Despite the national park taking its name from this rain-forested massif situated on the edge of the Rift Valley - whose 1860-odd metres are visible throughout the region - the mountain itself was only very recently given national park status. This is a hugely inspiring move from the Government of Mozambique as Mount Gorongosa is a critical watershed for the region, not to mention its biodiversity significance (it is home to many endemic species such as the Green-Headed Oriole). Many years of unchecked slash-and-burn agricultural practices, illegal logging and the like have left it more fragile than ever. But this is changing with the support of the Gorongosa Restoration Project and the likes of Explore Gorongosa who are introducing the concept of eco-tourism and conservation agriculture to the people of the mountain. A guided trip up to the cascading waterfalls or into the last remaining rainforest south of the Zambezi is truly special. It is hoped that through the initiative of the Mozambican government and the Gorongosa National Park, the mountain is now in safe hands and will soon become a must on the essential Mozambique travel itinerary. So it would seem much has changed in Gorongosa in the past couple of years, and refreshingly this change appears to all be for the positive. The park, the mountain and the region surrounding both, are places of extreme ecological beauty, biodiversity and importance. This, together with the historical value and cultural diversity of the area, leaves it as one of the places you simply must go see in Africa. But hurry, you wouldn't want to miss the boat on this one. Catch it while it's still innocent and wild - for isn't that the beauty of Africa?

How to get there:
Airlink offers daily direct flights from Johannesburg to Beira.
www.flyairlink.com

Three Tree Hill Lodge

Spectacular setting and service
Whatever I had expected, it wasn't this. The place was Three Tree Hill Lodge, and I had had a vague idea it was close to the famous Boer War battlefield of Spioenkop. Getting there took two and a half hours from Durban, with a final flourish on a short dirt road.

The setting is rather spectacular - to the west is the lilac-hued cutout of the Drakensberg range, to the east is the broken line of Spioenkop hill. But I had eyes only for the cluster of dark-green buildings under graceful paper-bark thorn trees. It was extraordinary, as if I had stumbled upon something out of White Mischief, where you expect an old-fashioned gramophone to be playing a Chopin prelude and a leaping Jack Russell terrier greeting you at the gate.

A series of small chalets, corrugatediron on the outside, cream-painted tongue-and-groove paneling on the inside, peaked roofs and ceiling fans, cool polished cement floors, sash windows, wide wrap-around verandahs and French doors - the buildings reminded me irresistibly of a diamondrush town from the last century but one that had gone astray and settled comfortably in the breeze-stirred hills around Ladysmith.

The other-worldly feel of the place is underscored by solid old-fashioned furniture - the kind of pick'n'mix that would be found in a Boer War command post. Pictures on the walls come from newspapers of 1901, featuring the reverses and successes of battle, interspersed with advertisements for war-time nostrums: Bovril - 'the food from the Front' - Kean's Mustard and Scrubbs Ammonia.

Unreal splendour

After a few hours of the almost tangible quiet the visitor gets a sense of complete unreality, as if the modern world has receded and another age has intervened.

This is Cecil John Rhodes on campaign: claw-footed baths, olive-oil soaps, candlesticks and dishes of bath salts. There is an unobtrusive luxury, an attention to detail, which is most gratifying. A tiny fridge in the room with fresh milk for your coffee, generous plug points, the bowl of fresh fruit, the library of dog-eared books, the basket of swim towels in the spacious walk-in cupboard. There are fireplaces and hot water bottles for the chilly nights, and insect repellent for the summer mosquitoes.

What I liked most about the lodge were the communal meals around a long scrubbed dining-room table, where guests could chat about the day's tours while tucking in to extraordinarily good food. There is no way that Buller and Warren and Roberts and Co. - those doughty warriors of the Boer War - would have been able to get scrambled egg with smoked trout for breakfast, or ice-cream and meringue for evening dessert!

The second-best part is the swimming pool recessed into a wooden deck under a vast paper-bark tree, tactfully away from the chalets and with the most stupendous view of valleys and hills.

The lodge is about the Boer War - or more specifically the Siege of Ladysmith. Guests who come here not only want to visit the battlefields but would also like to live the lifestyle of 100 years ago. Tourguide Omri Nene takes guests on battlefield tours to Colenso, Chievely and Spioenkop. A drama graduate, Omri likes

Horseback trails

A unique attraction at Three Tree Hill is a horse-back tour of Spioenkop. The trail winds out from the lodge, with the brooding and dramatic line of the Drakensberg on the left, the peaks silhouetted against the sky from the Sentinel right down to Giant's Castle. But the eye is ineluctably drawn to the right, where the outline of Spioenkop shows only too clearly and tragically how the English miscalculated their position and were cut to pieces by the Boers. It ranks alongside Isandlwana as one of the great wipe-outs of the war, even more so if it is remembered that both sides thought they had lost the battle and retreated, leaving the hill that they had so bloodily fought over completely deserted.

But apart from the battles and the history that soaks into the very soil around the lodge, this is also an admirable place for a mere escape from the rat race. The peace and quiet is almost like an extra guest, with small sounds like the clicking of the corrugated iron as it heats and cools; the twitter of birds, the far-off yip of a jackal. The Lodge overlooks the Spioenkop Game Reserve, so there is plenty of game and bird viewing from the verandah, if not closer up.

Equidistant from Johannesburg and Durban, this is a small and intimate lodge with impeccable service, an old-fashioned ambience in the best possible way, the added frisson of history, enough activities to keep one busy for a few days, but a relaxed atmosphere that lends itself to putting feet up on the verandah with a good book or a chatty companion.

It is quite a wrench to return to the car, drive down the hill and join the highway back to the city. You've stepped out of time for a while - but it's reassuring to know that nothing will change until you get back.

Go to www.threetreehill.co.za

How to get there:
Airlink connects you to the Natal Midlands with daily, direct flights from Johannesburg to Pietermaritzburg.
www.flyairlink.com

Peak experience

Africa's mountain kingdom offers a new look and so much more
Sun International has two properties in Lesotho - the Lesotho Sun is situated on a hillside overlooking the Mountain Kingdom's capital city of Maseru, providing a spectacular view across the city towards faraway mountains and awesome skyscapes, and the Maseru Sun, located on an idyllic spot alongside the Caledon River, set among extensive and lush parklike gardens.

Maseru is the major gateway for travellers coming by air and by road and is also a pleasant base from which to explore the western and northern attractions of the Kingdom of Lesotho.

The Maseru Sun has a total of 112 rooms, of which three are suites and 109 twin rooms. The spa, ideally located at the pool-side entertainment area, offers tailormade beauty packages from Monday to Saturday. Dining options are extensive and include The Mohokare restaurant's buffet and á la carte menu through to light meals at the Katse Terrace.

The Lesotho Sun casino and hotel was extensively refurbished in 2009/10, in a joint venture with the Lesotho government. The hotel has 158 luxury airconditioned rooms including two royal suites, four duplex rooms and 14 luxury rooms. This property also features modern conferencing facilities for up to 320 people and a casino of 120 slot machines and eight tables including Blackjack and American Roulette.

Dining options include the Asianfusion- themed Ying Tao Grill with Thai and Chinese influences offering traditional grill tapanayaki and sushi available on request, and the Nala Cafe is a buffet restaurant offering a wide variety of local and international fare with a sizeable wine menu, two walk up bars and 24-room service.

Work out in style

An impressive 217 square metre gymnasium adjoins an aerobics area and spinning floor to provide guests with a combined area of more than 447 square metres in which to work out. Complementing the refurbished gym, the men's and women's change rooms each boast their own sauna rooms, providing a relaxing escape from the bustle of Maseru. A children's playground is available around the pool area to entertain the little ones.

The hotel sports a fabulously revamped 110 square metre spa and beauty salon where guests will be able to de-stress in a tranquil setting. Business and leisure travellers will be spoilt for choice with three treatment areas, two nail bars and a fully equipped beauty salon. Several treatment options are available and are guaranteed to remove the strains of city life.

Maseru is an ideal base from which to explore the western region of Lesotho with its magnificent scenery, rich history, culture and crafts. Lesotho offers the ultimate outdoor experience, whether you enjoy hiking, mountain biking, pony trekking or 4x4-ing. Local attractions include an awardwinning building modelled on a Basotho hat which houses the Lesotho Cooperative Handicrafts Centre, the Basotho Pony, world famous for its unique equine qualities and an integral part of traditional life and one of the world's strangest abodes, the Kome Cave village at Sefikeng, once home to a group of cannibals.

The design team responsible for the hotel's new look aimed to reflect the culture and traditions of the mountain kingdom in a contemporary setting. Earth tones have been used throughout which complement the sandstone exterior creating a simple, elegant environment offering the finest accommodation in Lesotho.

About Lesotho

Situated in the heart of South Africa, the independent Kingdom of Lesotho is a country of unparalleled mountain beauty, warm-hearted and friendly people, a rich cultural heritage, and is the land of one of the greatest African diplomats of the 19th century, the great King Moshoeshoe, founder of the Basotho nation.

The Mountain Kingdom of Lesotho is a truly beautiful country, which is the high point (literally!) of any visit to southern Africa. Roughly the size of Belgium and with the entire country lying above 1 500 metres from sea level, Lesotho has the highest lowest point of any country in the world. Visit Lesotho to discover remote and rugged mountains, spectacular natural scenery, deep valleys and gorges, and the culture and hospitality of the Basotho people.

Lesotho offers a wide range of attractions, from the Ts'ehlanyane National Park to the Kome Cave dwellings and Sani Pass our cultural and natural diversity attests to the fact that once visited, Lesotho brings travellers back time and time again.

Special offer
Lesotho Sun Corporate stay from R860 p/p sharing p/night & R1 475 p/single room p/night including breakfast & dinner. Valid until 31 December 2010.

To book call Dreams on 011 217 5555 or visit www.suninternationaldreams.com

How to get there:
Airlink offers daily, convenient jet flights from Johannesburg to Maseru.
www.flyairlink.com

Tintswalo Atlantic

At the seaside
At the foot of Chapman's Peak, overlooking the quaint fishing village of Hout Bay, lies Tintswalo Atlantic - one of South Africa's premier luxury destinations. The elegant boutique lodge is comfortably placed between rolling acres of Cape fynbos and a grove of ancient Milkwood trees. With its breathtakingly beautiful view over the majestic Atlantic shoreline, Tintswalo Atlantic offers visitors the rare opportunity to enjoy first-class service and five-star pampering - and all in absolute seclusion and privacy.

Tintswalo Atlantic is just outside the cosmopolitan city of Cape Town, so for both local and international visitors it's a great home away from home. The calm, gentle and welcoming atmosphere of the lodge makes it one of the best loved destinations in the iconic Cape Peninsula. Each guest is pampered and cared for by expertly trained staff, ensuring that every need is attended to. At Tintswalo, the goal is not to meet but to exceed guests' expectations.

On the ocean's edge

Named after famous islands of the world, each suite is individually decorated to reflect the nature of the island it represents, and each customised door is crafted to introduce the character of the island's people. The interior furnishings are threaded with colours of silver and deep aquamarine and turquoise, in peaceful harmony with the natural sea and mountain landscape. The air-conditioned suites are, quite literally, situated on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean. Each room has its own unique view of the coast and the majestic Sentinel across the bay. The suites ensure supreme comfort and privacy, and whale-watching - from your own exclusive vantage point - is an unforgettable experience to be had at certain times of the year. Guests have spacious en-suite bathrooms, all with hisand- her basins as well as showers from which one can enjoy an uninterrupted marine view. Shells, tactile fabrics and stunning displays of coral bring life to the suites, while the main lodge is decorated with crystal and silver displays to enhance the unique ambience.

An inviting open plan kitchen and dining room area encourages guests to interact and watch the magic unravel in the lodge's five-star kitchen. Headed by the dynamic duo of Natasha Fernandes and Sean Klette, Tintswalo Atlantic's kitchen impresses even the most fastidious of food critics. Renowned for its worldclass cuisine and diverse range of culinary creations, Tintswalo Atlantic promises to delight the taste buds. And with a wide variety of local and international wines to complement every meal, guests are never disappointed.

Harmonious style

The lodge's many communal areas have been built predominantly from wood and glass to blend in and enhance the natural beauty of the surrounding environment. The guest facilities include a lounge, bar and small wine cellar. The common element shared by all is the unrivalled views of the sea and surrounding mountains. The décor and furnishings expertly enhance the rare elegance of the lodge's African setting. An exotic colour palette of blue, green, aquamarine and silver reflects the ever changing moods and tones of the nearby ocean. On the long wooden deck with its luxurious heated Jacuzzi pool and comfortable loungers, guests can revel in the feeling of being suspended over the ocean. For those who seek a touch of extra pampering, guests may enjoy a range of top class treatments in the privacy of their suites.

With a perfect position between mountains and ocean, there is no shortage of things to see and do for visitors. Guests can soak up the atmosphere at the busy working harbour of Hout Bay, and during the week, they can watch fishing trawlers and crayfish boats unload their catches. Nature lovers can explore the expansive Table Mountain National Park, which offers numerous walking and hiking trails - some of which are guided by the Park's experts. In Hout Bay, the world-famous World of Birds is the largest bird park in Africa and one of the few large bird parks in the world. Over 3 000 birds (and small animals) of 400 different species are on show in more than 100 spacious aviaries.

Guests can also take a boat trip to Seal Island - a tiny island behind the Sentinel which is densely populated by some 6000 seals. For adrenalin junkies, there is plenty of sea-kayaking going on in the area, among other exciting activities such as mountain walks. And for those who enjoy slightly more laid-back activities, the breathtaking Constantia Winelands are just a stone's throw away. This area is the birthplace of the world-renowned Cape wine farming industry, and visitors can spend several days wine-tasting and enjoying the Cape hospitality. Guests can also indulge in a spot of retail therapy at Cape Town's V & A Waterfront, or at one of the several other shopping districts.

With its understated elegance, unparalleled service, and commitment to comfort, Tintswalo Atlantic is the jewel of the Cape Peninsula and a beloved retreat for luxury seekers from around the world.

How to get there:
Airlink offers direct, convenient flights from Nelspruit, Kimberley, Upington and George to Cape Town.

www.flyairlink.com